Ponte Vecchio, Florence

One of my favorite spots in Florence is the Ponte Vecchio, the "old bridge." It's the oldest bridge in Florence, standing since 1345 at the Arno's narrowest point in the city. Both sides of the bridge are lined with shops -- today they are jewelry stores, but originally these shops housed butchers and leather tanners.

The switch from butcher shops to luxury goods happened in the 16th century. After the Pitti Palace was built in the Oltrarno (other side of the Arno) district, the powerful Medici family found that walking across the bridge to the Piazza della Signoria (Florence's main square) was insufferable, due to the raucous crowds and the horrible smells coming from the shops. As the ruling family of Florence -- the richest and the most powerful -- the Medicis had a private corridor (designed by Vasari) built that runs above the shops on one side of the bridge, and connects the Pitti Palace with the government buildings on the other side of the Arno. They also decreed that the bridge should no longer be used for meat and leather shops, but should only house gold and silversmiths.

Since the corridor is very difficult to get access to (today it's a gallery for a rare collection of artists' self-portraits), most people today have to cross the bridge the plebian way. During the day when the stores are open, it's absolutely packed with wandering tourists and large groups, all jostling to take pictures. But Marty and I found that in the morning, before the shops and the postcard stalls opened for the day, it was a beautiful, peaceful place to visit. The view of the Arno is magnificent. You may even recognize the bridge as the location where George threw Lucy's bloodstained photographs into the river in the movie A Room with a View.

The first morning we visited the Ponte Vecchio, Marty and I noticed these padlocks. There were others, too, attached to every bit of exposed metal on the bridge. We asked a tour guide about them and learned that they are part of a romantic tradition. Lovers come to the bridge and attach a padlock, then throw the key into the Arno to demonstrate the undying nature of their love.

I'm still not sure what that combination lock represents, though.

Click on small pictures to see larger versions.
Learn more about the Ponte Vecchio and its history.